https://wiki.homebrewtalk.com/api.php?action=feedcontributions&user=Bradsul&feedformat=atomHome Brewing Wiki - User contributions [en]2024-03-29T08:24:32ZUser contributionsMediaWiki 1.31.7https://wiki.homebrewtalk.com/index.php?title=Home_Brewing_Wiki:Site_support&diff=11921Home Brewing Wiki:Site support2009-09-30T13:51:48Z<p>Bradsul: Replacing page with 'If you want to donate to this Wiki you can do by the following ways;
- Telling friends and fellow beer zealots.
- Getting this Wiki linked on other websites.
- Adding conten...'</p>
<hr />
<div>If you want to donate to this Wiki you can do by the following ways;<br />
<br />
- Telling friends and fellow beer zealots.<br />
<br />
- Getting this Wiki linked on other websites.<br />
<br />
- Adding content or fixing spelling/grammer errors.</div>Bradsulhttps://wiki.homebrewtalk.com/index.php?title=Home_Brewing_Wiki:Site_support&diff=11865Home Brewing Wiki:Site support2009-09-28T15:43:36Z<p>Bradsul: Replacing page with 'If you want to donate to this Wiki you can do by the following ways;
- Telling friends and fellow beer zealots.
- Getting this Wiki linked on other websites.
- Adding conten...'</p>
<hr />
<div>If you want to donate to this Wiki you can do by the following ways;<br />
<br />
- Telling friends and fellow beer zealots.<br />
<br />
- Getting this Wiki linked on other websites.<br />
<br />
- Adding content or fixing spelling/grammer errors.</div>Bradsulhttps://wiki.homebrewtalk.com/index.php?title=Home_Brewing_Wiki:Site_support&diff=11864Home Brewing Wiki:Site support2009-09-28T15:43:10Z<p>Bradsul: Reverted edits by RacdrOnvic (Talk); changed back to last version by BastaErpas</p>
<hr />
<div></div>Bradsulhttps://wiki.homebrewtalk.com/index.php?title=Home_Brewing_Wiki:Site_support&diff=10905Home Brewing Wiki:Site support2009-08-03T05:25:41Z<p>Bradsul: Replacing page with 'If you want to donate to this Wiki you can do by the following ways;
- Telling friends and fellow beer zealots.
- Getting this Wiki linked on other websites.
- Adding conten...'</p>
<hr />
<div>If you want to donate to this Wiki you can do by the following ways;<br />
<br />
- Telling friends and fellow beer zealots.<br />
<br />
- Getting this Wiki linked on other websites.<br />
<br />
- Adding content or fixing spelling/grammer errors.</div>Bradsulhttps://wiki.homebrewtalk.com/index.php?title=Home_Brewing_Wiki:Site_support&diff=10904Home Brewing Wiki:Site support2009-08-03T05:25:04Z<p>Bradsul: Reverted edits by Bradsul (Talk); changed back to last version by RacdrOnvic</p>
<hr />
<div></div>Bradsulhttps://wiki.homebrewtalk.com/index.php?title=Home_Brewing_Wiki:Site_support&diff=10903Home Brewing Wiki:Site support2009-08-03T05:24:53Z<p>Bradsul: Reverted edits by RacdrOnvic (Talk); changed back to last version by BastaErpas</p>
<hr />
<div></div>Bradsulhttps://wiki.homebrewtalk.com/index.php?title=Storing_Your_Beer&diff=10902Storing Your Beer2009-08-03T05:24:44Z<p>Bradsul: Reverted edits by TrcobOcdro (Talk); changed back to last version by Daveotero</p>
<hr />
<div>[[Category:Beer]]<br />
For the homebrewer, there are two main options for storing beer: [[bottles]] and [[kegs]].<br />
<br />
== Bottles ==<br />
{{main|Bottles}}<br />
<br />
A typical five gallon batch of beer will yield approximately fifty 12oz bottles, forty 16oz bottles, or twenty-five 750mL bottles.<br />
<br />
The equipment needed to bottle beer includes: A capper (either a wing capper or a bench capper), a bottling wand for easy filling of bottles, a siphon or a bucket with a spigot, a 4 or 5 foot length of tubing, bottles and bottle caps. <br />
<br />
[[Image:bench-capper.jpg|thumb|100px|Bench Capper.]]<br />
[[Image:2-handle-capper.jpg|thumb|100px|Wing Capper.]]<br />
Pry-off bottles are preferred to twist-off bottles. Twist-off bottles are hard to cap, especially with a wing capper, and may not hold their seal. <br />
<br />
Brown bottles are preferred to green or clear bottles. Brown bottles protect the beer from light exposure which results in "skunky" flavor and aroma. <br />
<br />
Many homebrewers obtain their bottles by saving their commercial beer bottles after drinking. <br />
<br />
===Advantages===<br />
<br />
The biggest advantage to bottling is that it requires very little special equipment, making it a cheap and easy way to store your beer, especially for new homebrewers. <br />
<br />
Bottles are easy to give away as presents or take to a party, and all homebrew competitions require entries to be bottled.<br />
<br />
Homebrewers who keg their beer will often bottle some "big" beers, such as Barley Wines and Russian Imperial Stouts. These big beers benefit from extended aging and bottling is a convenient method of storing and serving that doesn't use up a keg tap for extended periods of time. <br />
<br />
===Disadvantages===<br />
<br />
Bottling is more time consuming than kegging. A typical homebrewer will take 2 to 3 hours to bottle 5 gallons of beer. Much of this time is spent cleaning and sanitizing the bottles. <br />
<br />
A second disadvantage of bottling is less direct control over carbonation. Some batches may end up not carbonated enough or be over carbonated. Bottles typically take between 1 and 3 weeks to reach peak carbonation, though this time may be longer in some cases.<br />
<br />
If a batch is highly overcarbonated the pressure inside the bottle may be enough to crack or even break the bottle (a situation known as "bottle bombs").<br />
<br />
== Kegs ==<br />
{{main|Kegs}}<br />
<br />
One five gallon batch yields one five gallon keg.<br />
<br />
===Advantages===<br />
<br />
;Cleaning: Sanitizing one keg is quick and easy.<br />
;Filling: Filling a keg is as simple as racking from your fermenter and sealing the keg.<br />
;Force Carbonation: Instead of using priming sugar, you can force carbonate (with C02) which can speed along the beer towards being ready to drink.<br />
;Consistency: The entire batch will have consistent flavor and carbonation.<br />
<br />
===Disadvantages===<br />
<br />
;Cost: The initial costs of kegging equipment are high.<br />
;Portability: Kegs are more difficult to move from place to place than bottles.<br />
;Storage: Kegs can be stored warm, but the entire keg should be chilled in order to serve, which usually requires more room than bottles and possibly a separate refrigerator.<br />
<br />
== Casks ==<br />
{{main|Casks}}<br />
<br />
A cask is a vessel that is used to condition the ale and to serve from. After primary fermentation the ale is racked to the casks, primed and bunged. CO2 is not used for carbonation or serving, the ale is pulled from the cask by a [[beer engine]]; this results in low carbonation levels. Depending on the region of the UK, sometimes [[sparklers]] are fitted to the beer engine to release the CO2 from the ale and create a foamy head. Cask conditioned beer is referred to as [[Real Ale]].<br />
<br />
Originally casks were wooden, but for reasons of cost and durability they were mainly replaced by stainless steel casks. Plastic casks are now also becoming more common.<br />
<br />
Homebrewers not wishing to use casks but wanting to replicate cask conditioned "Real Ale" can achieve similar results with kegs by reducing the amount of primer to suit the style, and using a standard beer tap with a low CO2 serving pressure. A problem with doing this can be trub settling in the kegs and affecting the clarity of the served beer. This can be partially rectified by the addition of finings and making sure the keg is not disturbed for several days before and during serving. Cutting an inch or so off the end of the dip tube may also help.</div>Bradsulhttps://wiki.homebrewtalk.com/index.php?title=Storing_Your_Beer&diff=10471Storing Your Beer2009-05-22T13:29:05Z<p>Bradsul: Reverted edits by RicriCcoro (Talk); changed back to last version by Bradsul</p>
<hr />
<div>[[Category:Beer]]<br />
For the homebrewer, there are two main options for storing beer: [[bottles]] and [[kegs]].<br />
<br />
== Bottles ==<br />
{{main|Bottles}}<br />
<br />
A typical five gallon batch of beer will yield approximately fifty 12oz bottles, forty 16oz bottles, or twenty-five 750mL bottles.<br />
<br />
The equipment needed to bottle beer includes: A capper (either a wing capper or a bench capper), a bottling wand for easy filling of bottles, a siphon or a bucket with a spigot, a 4 or 5 foot length of tubing, bottles and bottle caps. <br />
<br />
[[Image:bench-capper.jpg|thumb|100px|Bench Capper.]]<br />
[[Image:2-handle-capper.jpg|thumb|100px|Wing Capper.]]<br />
Pry-off bottles are preferred to twist-off bottles. Twist-off bottles are hard to cap, especially with a wing capper, and may not hold their seal. <br />
<br />
Brown bottles are preferred to green or clear bottles. Brown bottles protect the beer from light exposure which results in "skunky" flavor and aroma. <br />
<br />
Many homebrewers obtain their bottles by saving their commercial beer bottles after drinking. <br />
<br />
===Advantages===<br />
<br />
The biggest advantage to bottling is that it requires very little special equipment, making it a cheap and easy way to store your beer, especially for new homebrewers. <br />
<br />
Bottles are easy to give away as presents or take to a party, and all homebrew competitions require entries to be bottled.<br />
<br />
Homebrewers who keg their beer will often bottle some "big" beers, such as Barley Wines and Russian Imperial Stouts. These big beers benefit from extended aging and bottling is a convenient method of storing and serving that doesn't use up a keg tap for extended periods of time. <br />
<br />
===Disadvantages===<br />
<br />
Bottling is more time consuming than kegging. A typical homebrewer will take 2 to 3 hours to bottle 5 gallons of beer. Much of this time is spent cleaning and sanitizing the bottles. <br />
<br />
A second disadvantage of bottling is less direct control over carbonation. Some batches may end up not carbonated enough or be over carbonated. Bottles typically take between 1 and 3 weeks to reach peak carbonation, though this time may be longer in some cases.<br />
<br />
If a batch is highly overcarbonated the pressure inside the bottle may be enough to crack or even break the bottle (a situation known as "bottle bombs").<br />
<br />
== Kegs ==<br />
{{main|Kegs}}<br />
<br />
One five gallon batch yields one five gallon keg.<br />
<br />
===Advantages===<br />
<br />
;Cleaning: Sanitizing one keg is quick and easy.<br />
;Filling: Filling a keg is as simple as racking from your fermenter and sealing the keg.<br />
;Force Carbonation: Instead of using priming sugar, you can force carbonate (with C02) which can speed along the beer towards being ready to drink.<br />
;Consistency: The entire batch will have consistent flavor and carbonation.<br />
<br />
===Disadvantages===<br />
<br />
;Cost: The initial costs of kegging equipment are high.<br />
;Portability: Kegs are more difficult to move from place to place than bottles.<br />
;Storage: Kegs can be stored warm, but the entire keg should be chilled in order to serve, which usually requires more room (than bottles) and a seperate refrigerator.<br />
<br />
== Casks ==<br />
{{main|Casks}}<br />
<br />
A cask is a vessel that is used to condition the ale and to serve from. After primary fermentation the ale is racked to the casks, primed and bunged. CO2 is not used for carbonation or serving, the ale is pulled from the cask by a [[beer engine]]; this results in low carbonation levels. Depending on the region of the UK, sometimes [[sparklers]] are fitted to the beer engine to release the CO2 from the ale and create a foamy head. Cask conditioned beer is referred to as [[Real Ale]].<br />
<br />
Originally casks were wooden, but for reasons of cost and durability they were mainly replaced by stainless steel casks. Plastic casks are now also becoming more common.<br />
<br />
Homebrewers not wishing to use casks but wanting to replicate cask conditioned "Real Ale" can achieve similar results with kegs by reducing the amount of primer to suit the style, and using a standard beer tap with a low CO2 serving pressure. A problem with doing this can be trub settling in the kegs and affecting the clarity of the served beer. This can be partially rectified by the addition of finings and making sure the keg is not disturbed for several days before and during serving. Cutting an inch or so off the end of the dip tube may also help.</div>Bradsulhttps://wiki.homebrewtalk.com/index.php?title=Home_Brewing_Wiki:Site_support&diff=10469Home Brewing Wiki:Site support2009-05-22T13:26:57Z<p>Bradsul: </p>
<hr />
<div>If you want to donate to this Wiki you can do by the following ways;<br />
<br />
- Telling friends and fellow beer zealots.<br />
<br />
- Getting this Wiki linked on other websites.<br />
<br />
- Adding content or fixing spelling/grammer errors.</div>Bradsulhttps://wiki.homebrewtalk.com/index.php?title=Home_Brewing_Wiki:Site_support&diff=10468Home Brewing Wiki:Site support2009-05-22T13:26:46Z<p>Bradsul: Reverted edits by Bradsul (Talk); changed back to last version by OudarTrocr</p>
<hr />
<div>http://www.textacelpasd.com <br />
http://www.textcnaoro.com <br />
If you want to donate to this Wiki you can do by the following ways;<br />
<br />
- Telling friends and fellow beer zealots.<br />
<br />
- Getting this Wiki linked on other websites.<br />
<br />
- Adding content or fixing spelling/grammer errors.</div>Bradsulhttps://wiki.homebrewtalk.com/index.php?title=Home_Brewing_Wiki:Site_support&diff=10467Home Brewing Wiki:Site support2009-05-22T13:26:21Z<p>Bradsul: Reverted edits by OudarTrocr (Talk); changed back to last version by LadarMonel</p>
<hr />
<div>http://www.textcnaoro.com <br />
If you want to donate to this Wiki you can do by the following ways;<br />
<br />
- Telling friends and fellow beer zealots.<br />
<br />
- Getting this Wiki linked on other websites.<br />
<br />
- Adding content or fixing spelling/grammer errors.</div>Bradsulhttps://wiki.homebrewtalk.com/index.php?title=Perry&diff=10466Perry2009-05-22T13:25:49Z<p>Bradsul: Reverted edits by ReldoMrold (Talk); changed back to last version by Bradsul</p>
<hr />
<div>[[Category:Cider]]<br />
{{ciderStub}}</div>Bradsulhttps://wiki.homebrewtalk.com/index.php?title=Cooling_the_wort&diff=10421Cooling the wort2009-04-26T17:53:24Z<p>Bradsul: removed article stub</p>
<hr />
<div>[[Category:Beer]]<br />
Once the boil is finished, it is important to drop the temperature of the wort as quickly as possible. As a general rule, while temps below 105f will probably not kill most yeasts, it is recommended to bring your wort down to 70f or below prior to pitching the yeast, in most cases. However, this range depends highly on the recommended temperature range for the particular yeast this is being used. <br />
<br />
Once the wort drops below 165f or so, the danger of [[infection]] from various airborne bacteria and stray yeasts becomes a factor. As such, it is important to keep the cooling wort covered as much as possible, and to cool it as quickly as possible. Below are 5 methods used to accomplish this:<br />
<br />
===[[Ice Bath]]===<br />
In this method, a sink, bathtub or other large tub, is filled with ice and water. The hot kettle containing the wort is then placed in this ice bath until the wort is cooled to the desired temperatures. This method takes the longest and is costly unless you have a large-scale icemaker.<br />
<br />
===[[ Immersion Chiller]] ===<br />
An immersion chiller is comprised of a length of copper tubing, similar to refrigerator ice maker supply lines, formed into a coil, with an inlet and outlet coming out of the top so as to clear the top of the kettle. The coil, after being sanitized, is submersed in the hot wort. One end of the tubing is attached to a hose, and cold water is subsequently run through the tubing. This water absorbs the heat from the wort, and is discharged through the outlet end of the pipe. This is an effective method of cooling the wort quickly.<br><br />
A simple method of sanitizing an immersion chiller is to immerse the coils into the wort 20 minutes before the end of the boil. This remaining boil time will serve to sanitize the chiller. This will also add trace amounts of copper to the wort, which some claim to be beneficial.<br />
<br />
===[[Counter-flow Chiller]] ===<br />
A counter-flow chiller is comprised of one tube that is fed through another, larger-diameter tube. The wort is sent through the inner tube, while cold water is sent the other direction through the outer tube, thus transferring the heat from the wort to the water. This is the most effective wort-chilling method, but is typically more costly and more difficult to clean than immersion chillers.<br />
<br />
===[[Plate Chiller]]===<br />
<br />
This chiller works along the same mechanics as a counterflow chiller, but instead of flowing through pipes, the wort passes over a series of plates that are cooled by water flowing through the unit. This is a more water-efficient way of chilling than using a counterflow chiller, but it is far more difficult to clean, as break can get stuck between the plates and be a potential [[infection]] issue.<br />
<br />
===[[No Chill Method]]===<br />
<br />
The no-chill method is used by brewers who do not have a chiller or view the use of chillers as being a waste of water (this is of great concern in Australia, which has had varying levels of water restrictions for some years). The wort is racked, generally into a [[No_Chill_Method#What_is_a_Cube.3F|cube]] or other container and the air removed by squeezing the sides (this requires a plastic container). The wort is left overnight to cool and when it reaches pitching temperature, the wort is aerated and the yeast is pitched.</div>Bradsulhttps://wiki.homebrewtalk.com/index.php?title=User_talk:Bradsul&diff=10373User talk:Bradsul2009-03-31T20:35:28Z<p>Bradsul: </p>
<hr />
<div>== Also... ==<br />
<br />
I think that [[Understanding Attenuation]] should just be ported over to [[Attenuation]] and then deleted- there is no reason why there is two articles about attenuation; the title of the former is only because it was ported over from braukaiser.com [[User:Peas and corn|Peas and corn]] 19:31, 16 December 2008 (CST)</div>Bradsulhttps://wiki.homebrewtalk.com/index.php?title=SMaSH&diff=10335SMaSH2009-03-09T02:21:37Z<p>Bradsul: </p>
<hr />
<div>SMaSH ('''S'''ingle '''Ma'''lt, '''S'''ingle '''H'''op)</div>Bradsulhttps://wiki.homebrewtalk.com/index.php?title=Acid_Malt&diff=10317Acid Malt2009-02-28T21:06:04Z<p>Bradsul: Redirecting to Acidulated Malt</p>
<hr />
<div>#REDIRECT[[Acidulated Malt]]<br />
[[Category:Beer]]<br />
[[Category:Beer ingredients]]<br />
[[Category:Malt]]<br />
[[Category:Specialty Malt]]</div>Bradsulhttps://wiki.homebrewtalk.com/index.php?title=Manifold&diff=10205Manifold2009-01-09T01:55:52Z<p>Bradsul: </p>
<hr />
<div>[[Category:Beer]]<br />
[[Category:Beer equipment]]<br />
[[Category:Glossary]]<br />
[[Category:Mash equipment]]<br />
A manifold or false bottom is a piece of equipment that sits on the bottom of the [[mash tun]] to prevent grain from getting into the [[boil]], which causes [[Tannins|tannin]] extraction. No matter what type of manifold you use, its essential function is to filter.<br />
<br />
== Using Stainless Steel Braid as a Manifold ==<br />
<br />
Stainless steel braid is used as a covering for plastic plumbing fixtures, because it is flexible and durable. The supply lines to sinks and toilets are usually made of soft plastic tubing wrapped in a stainless steel braided sheath that protects it from accidental damage.<br />
<br />
Some brewers use a stainless steel braid as a manifold in a homemade mash tun. Proponents of the stainless steel braid argue that it's easier to build and more durable than a copper manifold, and that it clears the wort more quickly during the vorlauf.<br />
Contents<br />
<br />
===Buying a braid===<br />
<br />
Braided tubing can be found in the plumbing section of most hardware stores in multiple lengths and widths and with a variety of fittings. Choose a length that makes sense for your mash tun and a width that will allow you to easily connect the braid to your outlet pipe. Don't worry about the fittings, since the first thing you will do is remove them.<br />
<br />
Be certain that the braided pipe you are buying is stainless steel; nylon coverings are becoming more and more common.<br />
<br />
===Preparing the braid===<br />
<br />
To prepare the steel braid for use as a mainfold, you will need to remove the internal plastic tube.<br />
<br />
First, cut the plumbing fittings off of each end of the braided plastic pipe. The easiest way to do this is probably with a rotary cutting tool such as a Dremel tool, but you can also use a hacksaw, strong tinsnips, a bolt cutter, or even a hatchet. To maintain the integrity of the braid, put masking tape over the ends and cut through the middle of the tape.<br />
<br />
Once the ends have been removed, you should be able to work the inner plastic tube out of the stainless sheath.<br />
<br />
Some brewers reinforce their braid, but most feel that this step is unnecessary, even with extremely large grain bills.<br />
<br />
===Attaching the braid to an outlet pipe===<br />
<br />
The braid can be connected to an outlet pipe with a hose clamp; simply slip the braid over a piece of appropriately sized copper tubing or other material and tighten.<br />
<br />
For best drainage, a T connector can be used so that both ends of the braid are connected to the outlet. Otherwise, you will need to clamp or otherwise close up the open end of the braid to prevent the mash from flowing in and bypassing the manifold.</div>Bradsulhttps://wiki.homebrewtalk.com/index.php?title=False_Bottom&diff=10204False Bottom2009-01-09T01:55:35Z<p>Bradsul: Redirecting to Manifold</p>
<hr />
<div>#REDIRECT[[Manifold]]<br />
[[Category:Beer]]<br />
[[Category:Beer equipment]]<br />
[[Category:Glossary]]<br />
[[Category:Mash equipment]]</div>Bradsulhttps://wiki.homebrewtalk.com/index.php?title=False_Bottom&diff=10203False Bottom2009-01-09T01:54:44Z<p>Bradsul: added categorization</p>
<hr />
<div>#REDIRECT[[Manifold]]<br />
[[Category:Beer]]<br />
[[Category:Beer equipment]]<br />
[[Category:Glossary]]</div>Bradsulhttps://wiki.homebrewtalk.com/index.php?title=Manifold&diff=10202Manifold2009-01-09T01:54:12Z<p>Bradsul: added categorization</p>
<hr />
<div>[[Category:Beer]]<br />
[[Category:Beer equipment]]<br />
[[Category:Glossary]]<br />
A manifold or false bottom is a piece of equipment that sits on the bottom of the [[mash tun]] to prevent grain from getting into the [[boil]], which causes [[Tannins|tannin]] extraction. No matter what type of manifold you use, its essential function is to filter.<br />
<br />
== Using Stainless Steel Braid as a Manifold ==<br />
<br />
Stainless steel braid is used as a covering for plastic plumbing fixtures, because it is flexible and durable. The supply lines to sinks and toilets are usually made of soft plastic tubing wrapped in a stainless steel braided sheath that protects it from accidental damage.<br />
<br />
Some brewers use a stainless steel braid as a manifold in a homemade mash tun. Proponents of the stainless steel braid argue that it's easier to build and more durable than a copper manifold, and that it clears the wort more quickly during the vorlauf.<br />
Contents<br />
<br />
===Buying a braid===<br />
<br />
Braided tubing can be found in the plumbing section of most hardware stores in multiple lengths and widths and with a variety of fittings. Choose a length that makes sense for your mash tun and a width that will allow you to easily connect the braid to your outlet pipe. Don't worry about the fittings, since the first thing you will do is remove them.<br />
<br />
Be certain that the braided pipe you are buying is stainless steel; nylon coverings are becoming more and more common.<br />
<br />
===Preparing the braid===<br />
<br />
To prepare the steel braid for use as a mainfold, you will need to remove the internal plastic tube.<br />
<br />
First, cut the plumbing fittings off of each end of the braided plastic pipe. The easiest way to do this is probably with a rotary cutting tool such as a Dremel tool, but you can also use a hacksaw, strong tinsnips, a bolt cutter, or even a hatchet. To maintain the integrity of the braid, put masking tape over the ends and cut through the middle of the tape.<br />
<br />
Once the ends have been removed, you should be able to work the inner plastic tube out of the stainless sheath.<br />
<br />
Some brewers reinforce their braid, but most feel that this step is unnecessary, even with extremely large grain bills.<br />
<br />
===Attaching the braid to an outlet pipe===<br />
<br />
The braid can be connected to an outlet pipe with a hose clamp; simply slip the braid over a piece of appropriately sized copper tubing or other material and tighten.<br />
<br />
For best drainage, a T connector can be used so that both ends of the braid are connected to the outlet. Otherwise, you will need to clamp or otherwise close up the open end of the braid to prevent the mash from flowing in and bypassing the manifold.</div>Bradsulhttps://wiki.homebrewtalk.com/index.php?title=Hop_utilization&diff=10201Hop utilization2009-01-09T01:52:12Z<p>Bradsul: redirect to main utilization page</p>
<hr />
<div>#REDIRECT [[Utilization]]<br />
[[Category:Beer]]<br />
[[Category:Glossary]]</div>Bradsulhttps://wiki.homebrewtalk.com/index.php?title=User_talk:Peas_and_corn&diff=10175User talk:Peas and corn2009-01-01T19:44:31Z<p>Bradsul: New page: == sysop == I certainly have no problem with you becoming sysop level, but you'll need to PM TxBrew on the main forum about that, he's the admin. --~~~~</p>
<hr />
<div>== sysop ==<br />
I certainly have no problem with you becoming sysop level, but you'll need to PM TxBrew on the main forum about that, he's the admin. --[[User:Bradsul|Bradsul]] 13:44, 1 January 2009 (CST)</div>Bradsulhttps://wiki.homebrewtalk.com/index.php?title=User_talk:Bradsul&diff=10174User talk:Bradsul2009-01-01T19:40:17Z<p>Bradsul: </p>
<hr />
<div>== Also... ==<br />
<br />
I think that [[Understanding Attenuation]] should just be ported over to [[Attenuation]] and then deleted- there is no reason why there is two articles about attenuation; the title of the former is only because it was ported over from braukaiser.com [[User:Peas and corn|Peas and corn]] 19:31, 16 December 2008 (CST)</div>Bradsulhttps://wiki.homebrewtalk.com/index.php?title=Home_Brewing_Wiki:Site_support&diff=10173Home Brewing Wiki:Site support2009-01-01T19:39:32Z<p>Bradsul: Reverted edits by C4talDrond (Talk); changed back to last version by Bradsul</p>
<hr />
<div>If you want to donate to this Wiki you can do by the following ways;<br />
<br />
- Telling friends and fellow beer zealots.<br />
<br />
- Getting this Wiki linked on other websites.<br />
<br />
- Adding content or fixing spelling/grammer errors.</div>Bradsulhttps://wiki.homebrewtalk.com/index.php?title=Category:Troubleshooting&diff=10172Category:Troubleshooting2009-01-01T19:38:58Z<p>Bradsul: Reverted edits by TaacdElchi (Talk); changed back to last version by Chapka</p>
<hr />
<div>[[Category:Frequently Asked Questions]]<br />
Below are a list of problems and concerns brewers find they need answers to.</div>Bradsulhttps://wiki.homebrewtalk.com/index.php?title=Storing_Your_Beer&diff=10171Storing Your Beer2009-01-01T19:38:18Z<p>Bradsul: Reverted edits by DarpaSalno (Talk); changed back to last version by Bradsul</p>
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<div>[[Category:Beer]]<br />
For the homebrewer, there are two main options for storing beer: [[bottles]] and [[kegs]].<br />
<br />
== Bottles ==<br />
{{main|Bottles}}<br />
<br />
A typical five gallon batch of beer will yield approximately fifty 12oz bottles, forty 16oz bottles, or twenty-five 750mL bottles.<br />
<br />
The equipment needed to bottle beer includes: A capper (either a wing capper or a bench capper), a bottling wand for easy filling of bottles, a siphon or a bucket with a spigot, a 4 or 5 foot length of tubing, bottles and bottle caps. <br />
<br />
[[Image:bench-capper.jpg|thumb|100px|Bench Capper.]]<br />
[[Image:2-handle-capper.jpg|thumb|100px|Wing Capper.]]<br />
Pry-off bottles are preferred to twist-off bottles. Twist-off bottles are hard to cap, especially with a wing capper, and may not hold their seal. <br />
<br />
Brown bottles are preferred to green or clear bottles. Brown bottles protect the beer from light exposure which results in "skunky" flavor and aroma. <br />
<br />
Many homebrewers obtain their bottles by saving their commercial beer bottles after drinking. <br />
<br />
===Advantages===<br />
<br />
The biggest advantage to bottling is that it requires very little special equipment, making it a cheap and easy way to store your beer, especially for new homebrewers. <br />
<br />
Bottles are easy to give away as presents or take to a party, and all homebrew competitions require entries to be bottled.<br />
<br />
Homebrewers who keg their beer will often bottle some "big" beers, such as Barley Wines and Russian Imperial Stouts. These big beers benefit from extended aging and bottling is a convenient method of storing and serving that doesn't use up a keg tap for extended periods of time. <br />
<br />
===Disadvantages===<br />
<br />
Bottling is more time consuming than kegging. A typical homebrewer will take 2 to 3 hours to bottle 5 gallons of beer. Much of this time is spent cleaning and sanitizing the bottles. <br />
<br />
A second disadvantage of bottling is less direct control over carbonation. Some batches may end up not carbonated enough or be over carbonated. Bottles typically take between 1 and 3 weeks to reach peak carbonation, though this time may be longer in some cases.<br />
<br />
If a batch is highly overcarbonated the pressure inside the bottle may be enough to crack or even break the bottle (a situation known as "bottle bombs").<br />
<br />
== Kegs ==<br />
{{main|Kegs}}<br />
<br />
One five gallon batch yields one five gallon keg.<br />
<br />
===Advantages===<br />
<br />
;Cleaning: Sanitizing one keg is quick and easy.<br />
;Filling: Filling a keg is as simple as racking from your fermenter and sealing the keg.<br />
;Force Carbonation: Instead of using priming sugar, you can force carbonate (with C02) which can speed along the beer towards being ready to drink.<br />
;Consistency: The entire batch will have consistent flavor and carbonation.<br />
<br />
===Disadvantages===<br />
<br />
;Cost: The initial costs of kegging equipment are high.<br />
;Portability: Kegs are more difficult to move from place to place than bottles.<br />
;Storage: Kegs can be stored warm, but the entire keg should be chilled in order to serve, which usually requires more room (than bottles) and a seperate refrigerator.<br />
<br />
== Casks ==<br />
{{main|Casks}}<br />
<br />
A cask is a vessel that is used to condition the ale and to serve from. After primary fermentation the ale is racked to the casks, primed and bunged. CO2 is not used for carbonation or serving, the ale is pulled from the cask by a [[beer engine]]; this results in low carbonation levels. Depending on the region of the UK, sometimes [[sparklers]] are fitted to the beer engine to release the CO2 from the ale and create a foamy head. Cask conditioned beer is referred to as [[Real Ale]].<br />
<br />
Originally casks were wooden, but for reasons of cost and durability they were mainly replaced by stainless steel casks. Plastic casks are now also becoming more common.<br />
<br />
Homebrewers not wishing to use casks but wanting to replicate cask conditioned "Real Ale" can achieve similar results with kegs by reducing the amount of primer to suit the style, and using a standard beer tap with a low CO2 serving pressure. A problem with doing this can be trub settling in the kegs and affecting the clarity of the served beer. This can be partially rectified by the addition of finings and making sure the keg is not disturbed for several days before and during serving. Cutting an inch or so off the end of the dip tube may also help.</div>Bradsulhttps://wiki.homebrewtalk.com/index.php?title=Home_Brewing_Wiki:Community_Portal&diff=10168Home Brewing Wiki:Community Portal2009-01-01T19:36:39Z<p>Bradsul: Reverted edits by BasorRolch (Talk); changed back to last version by Peas and corn</p>
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<div>This page is an ideal page for central communication and coordination of the Wiki. Once a job has been done can you please delete it.<br><br />
Users with Admin rights are: Bradsul, Sause and Torchiest.<br />
__TOC__<br />
== To-Do ==<br />
{{toDoList}}<br />
<br />
== Current Projects ==<br />
<br />
=== AG FAQ Category ===<br />
We need a new category to start creating FAQ pages that result from forum posts. This category will be the landing page for sticky threads and will then be able to branch off as necessary. --[[User:Bradsul|Bradsul]] 15:16, 13 September 2007 (CDT)<br />
:I recently reorganized the old troubleshooting/questions categories a bit, so there's already a [[:Category:Frequently Asked Questions]] category. Technical questions should probably redirect there, and maybe a new forum-specific questions subcategory could be added there. --[[User:Chapka|Chapka]] 08:21, 14 September 2007 (CDT)<br />
<br />
=== Beer Ingredients Re-organization ===<br />
I'm also planning to tackle the rest of the [[Beer ingredients]] subpages eventually, especially the grain and malt pages, which I'd like to reorganize along the same lines as the hops pages. --[[User:Chapka|Chapka]] 13:21, 10 September 2007 (CDT)<br />
:I've reorganized the main [[:Category:Beer ingredients]] page in preparation for this project. I tried to pick descriptive, non-controversial names for the ingredient categories ("Fermentable Adjuncts", etc.) so that these can be listed separately. Next I'll probably tackle the category tree for grains (right now everything's just under a single "Malt" category) and rework some of the current grain pages, which are basically just ProMash output. See [[Vienna Malt]] to see my current thoughts on what a malt page might look like. --[[User:Chapka|Chapka]] 12:55, 11 October 2007 (CDT)<br />
::I've started working on the grain categories. Under the new scheme, [[Grain]] will be the top-level rather than [[Malt]], since I wanted there to be one top-level category that would include both malted and unmalted grains (such as roasted barley). [[Malt]] will be a second-level category and there will be a separate category for unmalted grain.--[[User:Chapka|Chapka]] 14:00, 1 November 2007 (CDT)<br />
<br />
=== Yeast Starters How-To ===<br />
I put up basic information on the [[Yeast Starters]] page. If anyone would like to take a series of photos of themselves going through the process, and put them up, it would really help a lot.<br />
--[[User:Torchiest|Torchiest]] 18:45, 11 February 2007 (CST)<br><br />
::I'm going to be washing my belgian wit yeast soon, I'll take pictures and document that as it goes along. --[[User:z987k|z987k]] 04 May 2007<br />
::Next time I make a starter I'll take pics and post them since it seems no one has done this yet. --[[User:Thejadeddog|Thejadeddog]] 03 October 2007<br />
<br />
=== American Handy-Book ===<br />
<br />
I've started an etext version of some of the relevant bits of the Wahl and Henius [[American Handy Book of the Brewing, Malting, and Auxiliary Trades]], in the style of WikiSource. I'll probably submit it there and at Project Gutenberg in addition to/instead of here if I ever get the whole thing finished; in the meantime, I'm doing a few shorter chapters as a proof-of-concept and will then try to fill in some of the more relevant chapters.--[[User:Chapka|Chapka]] 13:10, 27 November 2007 (CST)<br />
<br />
==Pages to be deleted==<br />
<br />
[[Simple all grain brewing]]<br />
<br />
[[All Grain Walk Through]]<br />
<br />
[[All Grain Brewing Simplified]]<br />
<br />
I have collapsed all info into [[All-grain brewing]] to create an article with all the info needed to all grain brew. Yes it still needs work, but it works as a central article with branches to more detailed articles if the reader wants more detail. [[User:Peas and corn|Peas and corn]] 22:38, 7 December 2008 (CST)<br />
<br />
== Mistakes to Be rectified ==<br />
<br />
The capitalization of article titles is a little bit haphazard right now, which in the long run will result in a lot of dead links. The usual wiki practice is to capitalize only the first letter of an entry unless the title is also a proper name.<br />
<br />
For example, right now if I type: "[[Irish ale]] is usually not brewed with [[6-row malt]]", neither of the links work, even though there are pages for both [[Irish Ale]] and [[6-Row Malt]]. To get to those pages, I have to use a pipe to the capitalized version in every link.<br />
<br />
The easiest solution is to make sure that you create lowercase redirects for any uppercase-titled pages, but in the long run it would probably be better to standardize the articles themselves.<br />
<br />
--[[User:Chapka|Chapka]] 10:28, 14 August 2007 (CDT)<br />
<br />
== Help Requested ==<br />
<br />
===Enabling DISPLAYTITLE?===<br />
<br />
I was trying to use the DISPLAYTITLE magic word to see if I could create a [[pH]] page, but the parser doesn't see it. [http://www.mediawiki.org/wiki/Manual:%24wgAllowDisplayTitle Apparently]it's turned off by default in this version of MediaWiki; any chance of getting it turned on?<br />
<br />
===Math tags?===<br />
<br />
The editor has an option for adding TeX-formatted formulae inside math tags, but it doesn't actually seem to be parsed. For example, I just see plain text for the following, which in Wikipedia displays an equation:<br />
<br />
<math>-b \pm \sqrt{b^2 - 4ac} \over 2a</math><br />
<br />
Is this something that needs to be turned on by an admin?<br />
: I think it requires latex to be installed on the server. I have no idea what kind of hosting environment homebrewtalk is on. You could PM TxBrew (the site admin) in the forum and see if he has any ideas. --[[User:Bradsul|Bradsul]] 14:00, 5 December 2007 (CST)<br />
<br />
== Additions Requested/Suggestions ==<br />
<br />
=== YouTube Support ===<br />
It looks like some backend stuff needs to be done in order to allow embedded youtube videos. I tried embedding my aeration time lapse as the youtube directions suggest and it doesn't work. The code just gets displayed. Check this out: http://www.mediawiki.org/wiki/Extension:YouTube_%28Iubito%29 [[User:Bobby M|Bobby M]] 14:11, 14 February 2007 (CST)<br />
<br />
=== Forum Help Section ===<br />
As detailed here:http://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=29881<br />
I think it might be wise to have a forum help section.<br />
--[[User:Olllllo|Olllllo]] 16:39, 17 May 2007 (CDT)<br />
<br />
:: Unless somebody beats me to it I will get started on this tonight. --[[User:Bradsul|Bradsul]] 16:55, 17 May 2007 (CDT)<br />
<br />
=== Troubleshooting Aromas, Flavors, Etc. ===<br />
I've repurposed [[:Category:Troubleshooting]], since the troubleshooting and common questions sections seemed to overlap a lot. The idea is to have a comprehensive index of off flavors and aromas and other beer problems, where when you click on a description ([[Green apples]]) it'll redirect you to a page on the off flavor, what causes it, and how to avoid it ([[Acetaldehyde]]). Everyone please add your favorite adjective for describing homebrew, good or bad! --[[User:Chapka|Chapka]] 08:27, 14 September 2007 (CDT)</div>Bradsulhttps://wiki.homebrewtalk.com/index.php?title=Serving_and_Consumption&diff=10167Serving and Consumption2009-01-01T19:36:17Z<p>Bradsul: Reverted edits by DomliBascn (Talk); changed back to last version by Bradsul</p>
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<div>[[Category:Beer]]<br />
Homebrews should be served with pride and consumed with gusto.<br />
<br />
==Pouring==<br />
<br />
[[Pouring from a bottle]] must be done with care. Generally speaking, the bottle should be opened carefully so that carbonation levels in the beer are not disturbed. Hold the glass at a slight angle and carefully pour the beer slowly against the side of the glass. When the glass is over half-full, slowly begin to pour directly into the glass. Try to maintain a reasonable head (the amount of head desired will vary by beer style) by pouring slowly. If you are pouring a home- or micro-brew, many bottles will have some sediment remaining in the bottom in the bottle. With certain exceptions (if you are drinking hefewiezen, for example), you should try to leave as much of this sediment in the bottle as possible. If the bottles have been handled roughly, the sediment will be resuspended in the beverage. Holding the bottle up to a light source will give a visual indication of this, although in brown bottles it may be difficult to tell. If the sediment has been aroused, letting the bottle sit for approximately 15 minutes (preferably in a refrigerator or freezer) should be sufficient to allow it to resettle. During the pour, the key to keeping the sediment at the bottom of the bottle is to avoid stopping and restarting the pour, which will arouse the sediment and make the beverage cloudy. Allow the carbonation levels to settle, then enjoy!<br />
<br />
==Tasting==<br />
<br />
[[Tasting Beer|Tasting beer]] is something to be savored.<br />
<br />
==Temperature==<br />
<br />
Americans have been conditioned to think beer is best when ice cold. Homebrewers should experiment with serving temperature to determine their preference. Cooling of beer generally reduces the flavor of the beer. Since much of the fun of homebrewing is experiencing the taste of the ingredients (see also ''Tasting'' above) homebrewers should do what they can to maximize that experience. <br />
<br />
Temperature has a very strong effect on the perception of flavors, sweetness in particular. A malty beer, such as a [[Doppelbock]] will show a more pronounced malty sweetness with warmer temperatures and if served at too high a temperature, the beer will become cloyingly sweet. Hops bitterness flavor is also intensified at warmer temperatures. It stands to reason then that in general, maltier styles are optimized when served warmer while hoppier styles are best suited served colder. This perception is of course different for every beer and every person, and there is no one-size-fits-all. <br />
<br />
At the same time, the CO2 in beer is more active when warm, which can cause excess fizziness. You might need to plan to chill your brew a bit to prevent it from being too foamy.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
*[[Kegerator]]s<br />
*[[Jockey box]]<br />
*[[Beer Engines]]<br />
*Beer line<br />
*Push fittings<br />
*CO2<br />
<br />
==External Links==<br />
==Navigation==</div>Bradsulhttps://wiki.homebrewtalk.com/index.php?title=Home_Brewing_Wiki:Site_support&diff=9983Home Brewing Wiki:Site support2008-12-05T05:06:31Z<p>Bradsul: Reverted edits by ColilAtael (Talk); changed back to last version by Bradsul</p>
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<div>If you want to donate to this Wiki you can do by the following ways;<br />
<br />
- Telling friends and fellow beer zealots.<br />
<br />
- Getting this Wiki linked on other websites.<br />
<br />
- Adding content or fixing spelling/grammer errors.</div>Bradsulhttps://wiki.homebrewtalk.com/index.php?title=User_talk:Bradsul&diff=9950User talk:Bradsul2008-11-24T14:17:20Z<p>Bradsul: /* Cheers */ removed note about runescape pages, action taken</p>
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<div>== Scratch Pad ==<br />
<br />
{| style="border-width:1px; border-style:solid; border-color:gainsboro; border-collapse:collapse; width:100%;"<br />
|- style="background-color: gainsboro;"<br />
! style="text-align:left; vertical-align:top; white-space:nowrap; width:10%;" | Name<br />
! style="text-align:left; vertical-align:top; white-space:nowrap; width:10%;" | Substitute<br />
! style="text-align:left; vertical-align:top; white-space:nowrap; width:80%;" | Alterations For Usage<br />
|-<br />
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{{HopsSubtituteRow<br />
|name=[[Fuggles (American)]]<br />
|substitute=[[Fuggles (English)]]<br />
}}<br />
<br />
{{HopsSubtituteRow<br />
|substitute=[[Willamette]]<br />
}}<br />
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{{HopsSubtituteRow<br />
|substitute=[[Styrian Goldings]]<br />
}}<br />
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{{HopsSubtituteRow<br />
|substitute=[[Tettnanger (American)]]<br />
}}<br />
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|}</div>Bradsulhttps://wiki.homebrewtalk.com/index.php?title=User_talk:Ndartist&diff=9723User talk:Ndartist2008-09-10T13:26:20Z<p>Bradsul: </p>
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<div>I want to know when to harvest Hops?<br />
<br />
:: You might want to join our forums as well (link in the sidebar). Specifically we do have a [http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f92/ hops growing forum] that should help you out a lot. --[[User:Bradsul|Bradsul]] 08:26, 10 September 2008 (CDT)</div>Bradsulhttps://wiki.homebrewtalk.com/index.php?title=Campden_tablets&diff=9689Campden tablets2008-08-26T20:15:06Z<p>Bradsul: added article stub</p>
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<div>{{articleStub}}</div>Bradsulhttps://wiki.homebrewtalk.com/index.php?title=Talk:Blending&diff=9678Talk:Blending2008-08-19T21:43:12Z<p>Bradsul: New page: = Identical Content? = This page looks identical to the High Gravity Brewing page. If so we should just redirect this page there or that page here. Any preference? --~~~~</p>
<hr />
<div>= Identical Content? =<br />
This page looks identical to the [[High Gravity Brewing]] page. If so we should just redirect this page there or that page here. Any preference? --[[User:Bradsul|Bradsul]] 16:43, 19 August 2008 (CDT)</div>Bradsulhttps://wiki.homebrewtalk.com/index.php?title=High_Gravity_Brewing&diff=9655High Gravity Brewing2008-08-19T02:47:43Z<p>Bradsul: formatting</p>
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<div>[[Category:Beer]]<br />
[[Category:Beer brewing process]]<br />
'''High Gravity Brewing''' (or [[Blending]]) is a technique that allows you to brew a larger end-batch volume without buying larger [[:Category:Fermentation equipment|fermentation equipment]]. A higher [[specific gravity]] beer ([[strong beer]])is first fermented and then blended with water to create a lower alcohol beer with less [[IBU]] and [[SRM]] than the originally fermented beverage.<br />
<br />
High-gravity brewing (or blending) is a technique the big US brewers use. [[Pilsner#American_Pilsner|American Pilsners]] are brewed with an original gravity (OG) around 14–16 [[Plato|°Plato]] (SG 1.056–1.064). After fermentation, the strong beer is diluted to a virtual OG of around 10–11 °Plato (1.040–1.044). The big breweries brew this way because they can produce more beer with high-gravity brewing than if they brewed it all at working strength. A fermenter that holds 500 barrels of beer will end up producing 700 barrels of beer. For home brewers, a 5-gallon (19-L) batch of strong beer can easily be diluted to yield 6–6.5 gallons (23–25 L) of finished beer, more if you’re careful.[Colby,2004]<br />
<br />
<br />
== Recipe Formulation ==<br />
The easiest way to formulate a high-gravity brewing recipe is to take a recipe for one volume and expand it to the larger target volume. However, you should brew the beer at the original volume. To calculate how much to expand the recipe, divide the larger volume of target beer by the smaller volume of strong beer.<br />
<br />
:For example let’s say you have a 5-gallon (19 L) pale ale recipe with:<br />
<br />
:* 10 lbs. (4.5 kg) pale malt<br />
:* 1 lb. (0.45 kg) [[crystal malt]]<br />
:* 2 oz. (56 g) of [[:Category:Bittering hop varieties|bittering hops]]<br />
<br />
:If you want to end up with 6 gallons (23 L) of beer, multiply all the ingredients by 6 divided by 5, or 1.2. You’d end up with the following amounts which you can then use to brew 5 Gallons (19L) and dilute to 6 Gallons (23L).<br />
:* 12 lbs. (5.4 kg) pale malt<br />
:* 1.2 lbs (0.54 kg)<br />
:* 2.4 oz (68 g) of hops<br />
<br />
A drawback to this simple calculation method is that [[utilization|hop utilization]] slightly decreases at higher wort [[Specific gravity|gravities]]. Thus using proportionally more hops in your high-gravity base beer may lead to an under-hopped diluted beer. However, in most cases, this discrepancy will be minimal. To completely master high-gravity brewing calculations, all you need to know is one simple formula <br />
<br />
(C1V1 = C2V2)<br />
Where C is concentration and V is volume.<br />
<br />
The subscripts refer to the initial strong beer and resulting blended beer.[Colby,2004]<br />
<br />
== Brewing the Strong Beer ==<br />
Brew your base beer as you would any strong beer. The quality of your final beer will depend primarily on how well the fermentation of your strong beer went. Fermentation byproducts, such as [[esters]] and [[higher alcohols]] ([[fusel oils]]), are produced at a dis-proportionally greater rate in “thick” worts than in “thin” ones. At higher dilution rates, you may notice that your finished beer is a bit more estery than it would have been had you brewed it normally.<br />
<br />
If your final beer tastes too estery, has fusel notes or other unwanted fermentation byproducts, you’ve pushed the technique too far. At higher dilution rates, you may also need to tinker with your recipe a bit to get the beer to taste as you want it. The big breweries typically do not exceed 16 °Plato (SG 1.064) when brewing their strong beer for dilution. Above this gravity and the resulting blended lager is too estery. For most lagers to be blended, 16 °Plato (SG 1.064) is a reasonable maximum starting gravity for the strong base beer.[Colby,2004]<br />
<br />
== Blending/Dilution Water ==<br />
Your dilution water should taste good and be free of [[chlorine]] or [[chloramines]]. As when you prepare your brewing liquor, carbon filtering your tap water should yield acceptable dilution water. There is no need to add calcium or other [[brewing salts]] to your dilution water. Under most normal circumstances, water has some oxygen dissolved in it. At 68 °F (20 °C), pure water that is exposed to air will have 9.0 parts per million (ppm) oxygen at equilibrium. This amount decreases at higher temperatures. When you dilute your beer, you don’t want to introduce oxygen into it. Oxygen will cause the beer to go stale faster than it normally would, resulting in cardboard-like aromas or sherry-like flavors. So, you need to remove the oxygen from your dilution water.<br />
<br />
To reduce the oxygen content of your dilution water, boil it vigorously for 15 minutes. I usually measure out the amount of water I need for dilution plus about 5% to account for evaporation. After boiling, cool the water as quickly as possible. Putting your pot in an ice bath works well for this. Be careful not to splash or agitate the water while chilling as you will reintroduce oxygen into the water. Unless you have a way of storing your dilution water under CO2, you should prepare it immediately prior to use. Immediately after boiling, your water will contain less than 1 ppm oxygen.[Colby,2004]<br />
<br />
== Sources ==<br />
[Colby,2004] [[Chris Colby]] editor of BYO magazine,[http://byo.com/departments/1169.html '''"Blending for volume: Techniques"'''], Jan,2004</div>Bradsulhttps://wiki.homebrewtalk.com/index.php?title=Blending&diff=9654Blending2008-08-19T02:34:37Z<p>Bradsul: </p>
<hr />
<div>[[Category:Beer]]<br />
[[Category:Beer brewing process]]<br />
[[Category:Glossary]]<br />
'''Blending''' (or [[High Gravity Brewing]]) is a technique that allows you to brew a larger end-batch volume without buying larger [[fermentation]] equipment. A higher [[specific gravity]] beer ([[strong beer]])is first fermented and then blended with water to create a lower alcohol beer with less [[IBU]] and [[SRM]] than the originally fermented beverage.<br />
<br />
[[Conditioning_the_Beer#Blending|Blending]] can also mean the mixing of two independently fermented beverages. This can be the same beer or different beers combined for a different flavor. Commercial examples include Newcastle (two differently fermented beers blended for a consistant flavor), Budweiser-Coors-Miller (the same beer fermented in different tanks and then blended for a consistant taste), and finally bartender-mixed blends such as Black & Tan (Guiness Stout and Bass Ale) or Half & Half (Guniess Stout and Harp Lager), which are two different beers mixed after the serving container for a differently tasting beverage.<br />
<br />
--By WortMonger, member of HBT.com 14:37, 18 August 2008 (CDT)</div>Bradsulhttps://wiki.homebrewtalk.com/index.php?title=Utilization&diff=9653Utilization2008-08-19T02:34:07Z<p>Bradsul: added categorization, minor formatting</p>
<hr />
<div>[[Category:Beer]]<br />
[[Category:Glossary]]<br />
<br />
'''Utilization''' is the percentage measurement of hop's [[alpha acids]] "utilized" during the boiling process. This gives you a formulized number to measure the bitterness of a final beer known as [[IBU|IBU's]] (International Bittering units), [[AAU|AAU's]] (Alpha Acid Units), or [[HBU|HBU's]] (Homebrew Bitterness Units).<br />
<br />
== Equations for determining utilization ==<br />
<br />
If your eyes glaze over looking at IBU equations - here’s a practical guide. Hop utilization increases with boil time, so the longer you boil your hops the more bitterness and IBUs you will add. Late addition hops (boiled for 5-10 minutes) add very little bitterness, and are used primarily for aroma. [[:Category:Bittering_hop_varieties|Bittering hops]] are usually added for the full boil time (60-90 minutes).[Smith,2008]<br />
<br />
Hop utilization also increases as you lower the gravity of your boil. If you are brewing a high gravity beer, or an extract brewer using a partial batch boil (small pot) you will get much lower utilization. This is why extract brewing requires more hops (in general) than all-grain brewing. Since different brewers use different equipment, it is important to take into account your own boil size and boil gravity when estimating the bitterness of your beer.[Smith,2008]<br />
<br />
Three equations to estimate utilization and IBUs are most often used: [[Rager]], [[Tinseth]] and [[Garetz]]. The equations differ in the way that they estimate the utilization percentage. Rager is most often associated with extract and partial mash brewers. The Rager equation takes original gravity of the boil into account, and tends to produce IBU estimates that are on the high side of the three equations. It’s important to understand that the three estimation methods will provide widely varying results in some cases. Each provides only an estimate of bitterness, and none are perfect or all encompassing. I would not spend too much time worrying the differences. Choose a single estimation method and stick with it.[Smith,2008]<br />
<br />
[http://www.realbeer.com/hops/FAQ.html Here is a page with all three methods on it and their equations.][Pyle,1995]<br />
<br />
== Sources ==<br />
[Smith,2008] [[Brad Smith]] author of [http://www.beersmith.com BeerSmith] Brewing Software, [http://www.beersmith.com/blog/2008/04/20/calculating-hop-bitterness-how-much-hops-to-use/ BeerSmith Forum Blog]<br />
<br />
[Pyle,1995] Norm Pyle, [http://www.realbeer.com/hops/FAQ.html Realbeer.com Hops FAQ's page]<br />
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--By WortMonger, member of HBT.com 18:55, 18 August 2008 (CDT)</div>Bradsulhttps://wiki.homebrewtalk.com/index.php?title=HBU&diff=9652HBU2008-08-19T02:31:18Z<p>Bradsul: added categorization, minor formatting</p>
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<div>[[Category:Beer]]<br />
[[Category:Glossary]]<br />
[[Category:Abbreviations]]<br />
[[Category:Hops]]<br />
'''HBU's''' or '''Home Brewing Units''' is an estimation based on Dave Line's [[AAU]] formula.<br />
<br />
AAU's equal the total ounces of [[hops]] to be boiled for 15 minutes or more multiplied by their [[alpha acid]] percentage rating.</div>Bradsulhttps://wiki.homebrewtalk.com/index.php?title=AAU&diff=9651AAU2008-08-19T02:28:38Z<p>Bradsul: added categorization, minor formatting</p>
<hr />
<div>[[Category:Beer]]<br />
[[Category:Glossary]]<br />
[[Category:Abbreviations]]<br />
[[Category:Hops]]<br />
<br />
'''AAU's''' or '''Alpha Acid Units''' are a commonly used formulation made famous by Dave Line in The Big Book of Brewing (Amateur Winemaking, Andover, UK, 1974).<br />
<br />
Though not as accurate as determining [[IBU|IBU's]], it provides a very good estimation for home brewers. The formula is found by adding the [[alpha acid]] percent per ounce of hops to be boiled for more than 15 minutes, divided by the number of gallons of beer to be made.</div>Bradsulhttps://wiki.homebrewtalk.com/index.php?title=IBU&diff=9650IBU2008-08-19T02:24:51Z<p>Bradsul: added some internal linking</p>
<hr />
<div>[[Category:Abbreviations]]<br />
[[Category:Beer]]<br />
[[Category:Glossary]]<br />
<br />
International Bittering Units, A more precise unit for measuring [[hops]]. [[AAU]] X % [[utilization]], [[wort]] volume and wort [[Specific gravity|gravity]].</div>Bradsulhttps://wiki.homebrewtalk.com/index.php?title=Kraeusen&diff=9645Kraeusen2008-08-18T23:47:31Z<p>Bradsul: added categorization, minor formatting</p>
<hr />
<div>[[Category:Beer]]<br />
[[Category:Glossary]]<br />
<br />
'''Kraeusen''' is the term brewers use to describe the foam that forms on top of the [[wort]] during [[fermentation]].<br />
<br />
The alternate spelling ''krausen'' is also correct.</div>Bradsulhttps://wiki.homebrewtalk.com/index.php?title=Blending&diff=9643Blending2008-08-18T23:45:27Z<p>Bradsul: added categorization</p>
<hr />
<div>[[Category:Beer]]<br />
[[Category:Beer brewing process]]<br />
[[Category:Glossary]]<br />
<br />
== Definition ==<br />
Blending (or [[High Gravity Brewing]]) is a technique that allows you to brew a larger end-batch volume without buying larger [[fermentation]] equipment. A higher [[specific gravity]] beer ([[strong beer]])is first fermented and then blended with water to create a lower alcohol beer with less [[IBU]] and [[SRM]] than the originally fermented beverage.<br />
<br />
[[Conditioning_the_Beer#Blending|Blending]] can also mean the mixing of two independently fermented beverages. This can be the same beer or different beers combined for a different flavor. Commercial examples include Newcastle (two differently fermented beers blended for a consistant flavor), Budweiser-Coors-Miller (the same beer fermented in different tanks and then blended for a consistant taste), and finally bartender-mixed blends such as Black & Tan (Guiness Stout and Bass Ale) or Half & Half (Guniess Stout and Harp Lager), which are two different beers mixed after the serving container for a differently tasting beverage.<br />
<br />
--By WortMonger, member of HBT.com 14:37, 18 August 2008 (CDT)</div>Bradsulhttps://wiki.homebrewtalk.com/index.php?title=High_Gravity_Brewing&diff=9642High Gravity Brewing2008-08-18T23:44:57Z<p>Bradsul: added categorization</p>
<hr />
<div>[[Category:Beer]]<br />
[[Category:Beer brewing process]]<br />
<br />
== Definition ==<br />
High Gravity Brewing (or [[Blending]]) is a technique that allows you to brew a larger end-batch volume without buying larger [[fermentation]] equipment. A higher [[specific gravity]] beer ([[strong beer]])is first fermented and then blended with water to create a lower alcohol beer with less [[IBU]] and [[SRM]] than the originally fermented beverage.<br />
<br />
----<br />
<br />
High-gravity brewing (or blending) is a technique the big US brewers use. American Pilsners are brewed with an original gravity (OG) around 14–16 [[Plato|°Plato]] (SG 1.056–1.064). After fermentation, the strong beer is diluted to a virtual OG of around 10–11 °Plato (1.040–1.044). The big breweries brew this way because they can produce more beer with high-gravity brewing than if they brewed it all at working strength. A fermenter that holds 500 barrels of beer will end up producing 700 barrels of beer. For home brewers, a 5-gallon (19-L) batch of strong beer can easily be diluted to yield 6–6.5 gallons (23–25 L) of finished beer, more if you’re careful.[Colby,2004]<br />
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== Recipe Formulation: ==<br />
The easiest way to formulate a high-gravity brewing recipe is to take a recipe for one volume and expand it to the larger target volume. However, you should brew the beer at the original volume. To calculate how much to expand the recipe, divide the larger volume of target beer by the smaller volume of strong beer. '''[For example, let’s say you have a 5-gallon (19 L) pale ale recipe with 10 lbs. (4.5 kg) pale malt, 1 lb. (0.45 kg) crystal malt and 2 oz. (56 g) of bittering hops. If you want to end up with 6 gallons (23 L) of beer, multiply all the ingredients by 6 divided by 5, or 1.2. You’d end up with 12 lbs. (5.4 kg) pale malt, 1.2 lbs (0.54 kg) and 2.4 oz (68 g) of hops. Brew 5 gallons (19 L) of this beer and dilute it to 6 gallons (23 L)]''' A drawback to this simple calculation method is that hop [[utilization]] slightly decreases at higher wort gravities. Thus, using proportionally more hops in your high-gravity base beer may lead to an under-hopped diluted beer. However, in most cases, this discrepancy will be minimal. To completely master high-gravity brewing calculations, all you need to know is one simple formula '''(C1V1 = C2V2)''', where C is concentration and V is volume. The subscripts refer to the initial strong beer and resulting blended beer.[Colby,2004]<br />
== Brewing the Strong Beer: ==<br />
Brew your base beer as you would any strong beer. The quality of your final beer will depend primarily on how well the fermentation of your strong beer went. Fermentation byproducts, such as [[esters]] and [[higher alcohols]] ([[fusel oils]]), are produced at a dis-proportionally greater rate in “thick” worts than in “thin” ones. At higher dilution rates, you may notice that your finished beer is a bit more estery than it would have been had you brewed it normally. If your final beer tastes too estery, has fusel notes or other unwanted fermentation byproducts, you’ve pushed the technique too far. At higher dilution rates, you may also need to tinker with your recipe a bit to get the beer to taste as you want it. The big breweries typically do not exceed 16 °Plato (SG 1.064) when brewing their strong beer for dilution. Above this gravity and the resulting blended lager is too estery. For most lagers to be blended, 16 °Plato (SG 1.064) is a reasonable maximum starting gravity for the strong base beer.[Colby,2004]<br />
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== Blending/Dilution Water: ==<br />
Your dilution water should taste good and be free of [[chlorine]] or [[chloramines]]. As when you prepare your brewing liquor, carbon filtering your tap water should yield acceptable dilution water. There is no need to add calcium or other “[[brewing salts]]” to your dilution water. Under most normal circumstances, water has some oxygen dissolved in it. At 68 °F (20 °C), pure water that is exposed to air will have 9.0 parts per million (ppm) oxygen at equilibrium. This amount decreases at higher temperatures. When you dilute your beer, you don’t want to introduce oxygen into it. Oxygen will cause the beer to go stale faster than it normally would, resulting in cardboard-like aromas or sherry-like flavors. So, you need to remove the oxygen from your dilution water. To reduce the oxygen content of your dilution water, boil it vigorously for 15 minutes. I usually measure out the amount of water I need for dilution plus about 5% to account for evaporation. After boiling, cool the water as quickly as possible. Putting your pot in an ice bath works well for this. Be careful not to splash or agitate the water while chilling as you will reintroduce oxygen into the water. Unless you have a way of storing your dilution water under CO2, you should prepare it immediately prior to use. Immediately after boiling, your water will contain less than 1 ppm oxygen.[Colby,2004]<br />
== Sources: ==<br />
[Colby,2004] [[Chris Colby]] editor of BYO magazine,[http://byo.com/departments/1169.html '''"Blending for volume: Techniques"'''], Jan,2004<br />
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--By WortMonger, member of HBT.com 14:37, 18 August 2008 (CDT)</div>Bradsulhttps://wiki.homebrewtalk.com/index.php?title=Strong_beer&diff=9641Strong beer2008-08-18T23:44:28Z<p>Bradsul: added categorization</p>
<hr />
<div>[[Category:Beer]]<br />
[[Category:Glossary]]<br />
<br />
== Definition ==<br />
A beer brewed at a higher [[specific gravity]] so it can be blended down to a lower strength beer for a technique known as [[High Gravity Brewing]] or [[Blending]]. These beers have a higher IBU, SRM and OG than the beer that will be the end product. Formulas are used to determine how high the OG, SRM, and IBU's will need to be to give a wanted finished product.<br />
<br />
--By WortMonger, member of HBT.com 16:03, 18 August 2008 (CDT)</div>Bradsulhttps://wiki.homebrewtalk.com/index.php?title=Utilization&diff=9640Utilization2008-08-18T23:43:51Z<p>Bradsul: added categorization</p>
<hr />
<div>[[Category:Beer]]<br />
[[Category:Glossary]]<br />
<br />
== Definition ==<br />
Utilization is the percentage measurement of hop's [[alpha acids]] "utilized" during the boiling process. This gives you a formulized number to measure the bitterness of a final beer known as [[IBU|IBU's]] (International Bittering units), [[AAU|AAU's]] (Alpha Acid Units), or [[HBU|HBU's]] (Homebrew Bitterness Units).<br />
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== Equations for determining utilization: ==<br />
<br />
If your eyes glaze over looking at IBU equations - here’s a practical guide. Hop utilization increases with boil time, so the longer you boil your hops the more bitterness and IBUs you will add. Late addition hops (boiled for 5-10 minutes) add very little bitterness, and are used primarily for aroma. Bittering hops are usually added for the full boil time (60-90 minutes).[Smith,2008]<br />
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Hop utilization also increases as you lower the gravity of your boil. If you are brewing a high gravity beer, or an extract brewer using a partial batch boil (small pot) you will get much lower utilization. This is why extract brewing requires more hops (in general) than all-grain brewing. Since different brewers use different equipment, it is important to take into account your own boil size and boil gravity when estimating the bitterness of your beer.[Smith,2008]<br />
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Three equations to estimate utilization and IBUs are most often used: [[Rager]], [[Tinseth]] and [[Garetz]]. The equations differ in the way that they estimate the utilization percentage. Rager is most often associated with extract and partial mash brewers. The Rager equation takes original gravity of the boil into account, and tends to produce IBU estimates that are on the high side of the three equations. It’s important to understand that the three estimation methods will provide widely varying results in some cases. Each provides only an estimate of bitterness, and none are perfect or all encompassing. I would not spend too much time worrying the differences. Choose a single estimation method and stick with it.[Smith,2008]<br />
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[http://www.realbeer.com/hops/FAQ.html Here is a page with all three methods on it and their equations.][Pyle,1995]<br />
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== Sources: ==<br />
[Smith,2008] [[Brad Smith]] author of [http://www.beersmith.com BeerSmith] Brewing Software, [http://www.beersmith.com/blog/2008/04/20/calculating-hop-bitterness-how-much-hops-to-use/ BeerSmith Forum Blog]<br />
<br />
[Pyle,1995] Norm Pyle, [http://www.realbeer.com/hops/FAQ.html Realbeer.com Hops FAQ's page]</div>Bradsulhttps://wiki.homebrewtalk.com/index.php?title=Krausen&diff=9639Krausen2008-08-18T23:42:54Z<p>Bradsul: Redirecting to Kraeusen</p>
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<div>#REDIRECT [[Kraeusen]]<br />
<br />
[[Category:Glossary]]<br />
Krausen</div>Bradsulhttps://wiki.homebrewtalk.com/index.php?title=Krausen&diff=9638Krausen2008-08-18T23:42:23Z<p>Bradsul: Redirecting to Kraeusen</p>
<hr />
<div>#REDIRECT [[Kraeusen]]<br />
<br />
[[Category:Glossary]]</div>Bradsulhttps://wiki.homebrewtalk.com/index.php?title=Krausen&diff=9637Krausen2008-08-18T23:41:37Z<p>Bradsul: Redirecting to Kraeusen</p>
<hr />
<div>#REDIRECT [[Kraeusen]]<br />
[[Category:Glossary]]</div>Bradsulhttps://wiki.homebrewtalk.com/index.php?title=Krausen&diff=9636Krausen2008-08-18T23:41:06Z<p>Bradsul: redirected to alternate spelling</p>
<hr />
<div>[[Category:Glossary]]<br />
<br />
'''Krausen''' is the term brewers use to describe the foam that forms on top of the [[wort]] during [[fermentation]].<br />
<br />
#REDIRECT [[Kraeusen]]</div>Bradsulhttps://wiki.homebrewtalk.com/index.php?title=Spunding&diff=9595Spunding2008-08-13T20:42:46Z<p>Bradsul: /* Use in brewing: */ internalized appropriate links</p>
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<div>Home brewing spunding valve in action!<br />
[[Image:Spunding_Valve.JPG]]<br />
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Don't forget to check out [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6m-uWqK7aNw&feature=related Poindexter's Spunding Valve Video] in this link.<br />
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== Definition: ==<br />
To spund is German for bung, meaning to close up or seal. Spunding in brewing refers to the act of closing off a vessel containing beer or wort and allowing pressure to build inside the liquid. This is useful in the natural carbonation of a beverage such as beer. The spunding valve is a device consisting basically of a pressure gauge to show vessel pressure, and some way to release overly wanted pressure from that vessel. Normally something such as a adjustable back-pressure relief valve is used to control a set pressure, venting any excess gas out of the vessel.<br />
[[Image:Bleeder.jpg]]<br />
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== Use in brewing: ==<br />
Spunding valves help the brewer by allowing natural carbonation to build up. This happens inside a fermenting beverage when the vessel is sealed up toward the end of [[Primary fermentation|primary fermentation]], or after the beverage is transfered to another vessel containing more fermentable sugar for carbonation during a [[Secondary fermentation|secondary fermentation]]. Transferring or [[Racking| racking]] into another vessel containing fermentables after primary fermentation is complete is known as [[Priming|priming]]. This, is a really good [http://www.trailmonkey.com/lounging/yeasty.htm#Spunding article] on spunding I found on the web while doing my research. Here, is a really good [[Fermenting Lagers#racking_to_a_serving_keg|article]] where Kaiser talks about transferring or racking beer from one keg to another under pressure or "counter-pressure".<br />
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== Links to some brewers who use this technique: ==<br />
[http://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=44344 WortMonger], [http://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=50550 Poindexter], [http://www.homebrewtalk.com/showpost.php?p=221255&postcount=6 Kaiser]<br />
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<br />
--By WortMonger, member of HBT.com 15:38, 13 August 2008 (CDT)</div>Bradsulhttps://wiki.homebrewtalk.com/index.php?title=Yeast_nutrients&diff=9571Yeast nutrients2008-08-06T15:56:06Z<p>Bradsul: added initial categorization</p>
<hr />
<div>[[Category:Glossary]]<br />
[[Category:Beer ingredients]]<br />
[[Category:Wine ingredients]]<br />
[[Category:Cider ingredients]]<br />
[[Category:Mead ingredients]]<br />
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Nitrogen - Nitrogen is used in the creation of new yeast cell walls.<br />
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Oxygen - Oxygen is needed by the yeast during the initial fermentation to grow rapidly.<br />
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Micro-nutrients - Various elements and amino acids needed by the yeast. These would be things like phosphorous and citric acid.<br />
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== Beer Yeast Nutrient additives ==<br />
Wort typically has enough nutrients that adding nutrients is not done.<br />
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<br />
== Wine and Mead Nutrient additives ==<br />
Wine and mead typically do not have enough nutrients on their own to produce a good end result.<br />
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[[DAP]] - Diammonium Phosphate<br />
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[[Fermax]]<br />
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[[Fermaid]]<br />
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[[Yeast Hulls]]<br />
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{{sectionStub}}</div>Bradsul