For the homebrewer, there are two main options for storing beer: bottles and kegs.
Bottles
A typical five gallon batch of beer will yield approximately fifty 12oz bottles, forty 16oz bottles, or twenty-five 750mL bottles.
Advantages
- Ease of portability
- A six pack is easy to take with you.
- Ease of storage
- Beer can be stored in a closet out of the way until you're ready to chill and drink.
- Bottles can be protected from light and contained from leaking by storing in typical plastic bins. Standard sizes can easily hold one case of bottles.
- Ease of sharing
- You can divide your batch up however you please and give it away without problems.
Disadvantages
- Cleaning
- Sanitizing two cases of bottles is time-consuming and unpleasant.
- Filling
- Filling two cases of bottles and then capping them is also time-consuming
- Inconsistency
- Flavor variations from one bottle to another are a concern, as well as inconsistent carbonation.
Kegs
One five gallon batch yields one five gallon keg, obviously.
Advantages
- Cleaning
- Sanitizing one keg is quick and easy.
- Filling
- Filling a keg is as simple as racking from your fermenter and sealing the keg.
- Force Carbonation
- Instead of using priming sugar, you can force carbonate to speed along the beer towards being read to drink.
- Consistency
- The entire batch will have consistent flavor and carbonation.
Disadvantages
- Cost
- The initial costs of kegging equipment are high.
- Portability
- Kegs are more difficult to move from place to place than bottles.
- Storage
- Kegs may be stored warm, but the entire keg must be chilled, which quite a bit of room and usually requires a seperate refrigerator.
Casks
Originally Beer and ale was stored in many containers usually anything available to the brewer. When the first "commercial" brewers started producing more beer than was required for personal consumption the beer was stored and transported in barrels. Often when the Ale reached it destination, the barrel was opened and the Ale transferred to a jug for serving, it was found to be slightly carbonated. i.e The beer had conditioned. Brewers then found that this conditioning could be guaranteed by adding a primer to the barrel along with the beer. Coopers modified the barrels so a tap could be fitted and the barrel filled through a small whole so if re-bunged they could be reused, i.e. a cask. After the tap was fitted the the beer was then filled to a jug and then to glass. This method is still used at many beer festivals around the UK.
A Cask is a vessel that is used to condition the Ale and to serve from. After primary fermentation the Ale is racked to the casks, primed and bunged. The use of CO2 is not used for carbonation or serving, the ale is pulled from the cask by a beer engine, this results in low carbonation levels. Dependent on the region of the UK, sometimes sparklers are fitted to the Beer engine to release the CO2 from the Ale and create a foamy head.
Cask conditioned Beer is referred to as "Real Ale" and should be drank within a few days to stop it going stale. Similar to "Bottle Conditioned".
Originally casks were wooden, but for reasons of cost and durability they where mainly replaced by stainless steel casks. Plastic casks are now also becoming more common.
Homebrewers not wishing to use casks but wanting to replicate cask conditioned "Real Ale" can achieve similar results with kegs by, reducing the amount of primer to suite the style, and using a standard beer tap with a low CO2 serving pressure. A problem with doing this can be trub settling in the kegs and affecting the clarity of the served beer. This can be partially rectified by the addition if finings, making sure the keg is not disturbed for several days before and during serving. Cutting a inch or so off the end of the dip tube may also help. Or a Polypin can be used with a beer engine.